Do you know how to build custom cabinetry?
Built-in bookcases, cupboards and shelving are faster, easier and much better with these tips from the veteran cabinetmaker. Here are a few strategies for building custom cabinetry.
Set cabinets on a new platform
Most lower cabinets include a foundation or toe-kick that raises them away the ground. But Ken doesn't develop them this way. Instead, a plywood is built by him system that acts because the base for a whole row of cabinets. The platform could be under- sized to permit for a toe area or full dimension for a more conventional look (as shown right here).
A couple is had by this approach of major advantages. First, cabinet building is simpler. The cabinets are boxes just; zero extended sides to create a base, zero toe-kick cutouts. Second, set up is faster. Leveling one platform is really a complete lot easier than positioning each cabinet separately. Ken sets the package 1/4 in. from walls to permit for wavy or out-of-plumb walls.
Quick, classic side panels
Once the relative side of a cabinet box will undoubtedly be exposed, you need to hide the cabinet back's edge somehow. The most common method would be to rabbet the relative side and recess the trunk. But Ken will get a richer appear with less hassle. He just glues and fingernails the trunk to the cabinet package and hides the uncovered plywood with a framework and panel for a vintage look. And because the cover panel is really a separate part, you can scribe it to the walls before fastening it to the cabinet.
Key screws for shelves
Plenty of designs have top shelf units that sleep on lower cupboards. Here's Ken's technique for fastening the shelf models to the cabinet best so the screws are concealed: He units the cabinet best on the lower cupboards and scribes it and sands it to match the walls. But he doesn't screw it set up yet. Instead, he jobs the shelf units at the top and cautiously slides the very best forward just far plenty of so that he is able to drive screws in to the shelf sides and dividers. After sliding the very best back into location, he screws the very best to the cupboards from below and screws the shelf models to the wall.
Back-bevel wall stiles
Before scribing stiles that may meet walls, bevel the trunk edge on your own table saw. That way, you should have less solid wood to belt-sand off once you shape the advantage to the contour of the walls. Ken cuts a 45-degree bevel about 1/2 in. deep, therefore he has just 1/4 in. of wood remaining.
Breakdown face frames
Pocket screws are a regular joinery technique, but Ken has a non-standard approach. He assembles encounter frames with wallet screws, but without glue. He sands the frames, labels the trunk of each part and disassembles them for less difficult finishing. Transport is easier as well: Ken can pack a mile of encounter frame components into his van and have them into the home without banging up wall space. The cabinet boxes want less too TLC, because they're frameless during transportation. Once on-site, Ken reassembles the frames with wallet screws and glue.
Thicker backs save time
Most cabinetmakers use 1/4-inside. plywood for cabinet backs. But Ken prefers 1/2-in. materials. The thicker plywood generally adds just a few bucks to the expense of each package and eliminates the necessity for a hanging strip or “nailer” behind the cabinet. Which means quicker building and a cleaner inside look. On top of that, it enables you to push a screw through the trunk anywhere, not at the nailer just.
Use prefinished plywood
Using its tough, flawless clearcoat, prefinished ply- wood eliminates completing hassles. But Ken utilizes it limited to “no-show” components like cabinet boxes and shelves. Finishing other areas to match the sheen and color of the factory-finished plywood is simply too difficult. Finding prefinished ply- solid wood can be difficult. Your very best bet is really a lumberyard that suits cabinetmakers.